Sunday 14 October 2012

Vienna; The Everlasting Capital of Culture

After just one hour on the road from Bratislava, we had travelled between two of the closest capital cities on the planet and, in doing so, had ventured through a Narnian wardrobe, from East to West, into the opulence and grandeur of Vienna. As is the enemy of every intrepid traveller, time was always against us; and so the anticipation of adventuring into another illustrious capital, experiencing another culture, and hopelessly attempting yet another language meant we were quickly out of our hostel in exploration.

Unlike the narrow and unruly streets that branched through Bratislava's Old Town; Vienna is an almost boundless place with broad, open roads, grand, sweeping courtyards and magnificent, ubiquitous gardens that naturally accentuated the tranquil summer days we were enjoying in the city. In every direction we took, Vienna's cultural empire of wealth and aristocracy was on show in numerous impressive forms. Most notably were the enormous 17th century baroque style buildings, low lying in design and constituting some of the most impressive theatres, museums, palaces and even public libraries we'd ever seen. A perfect illustration of such structures was Hofburg Palace, an elegant and magisterial building steeped in Austrian history (and current residence to the Austrian President!). It arches around an expansive courtyard which opens onto Vienna's Heroes' Square; a great plaza surrounded by immaculately kept lawns and centrepieced by an emphatic equestrian statue of one of Austria's most heralded military leaders.
 

Hofburg Palace and Heroes Square
A safe and salutary aura always seemed present whilst walking through the city's open aired streets and salubrious parks, and it was no surprise that Vienna is so often regarded as one of the most liveable places in the world. We continued to admire the most spectacular sights of Vienna, and non more so than the Austrian Parliament building. It exuded a majestic authority, with an ancient Greek styled exterior and a spectacular fountain dominating the front of the edifice; both of which were adorned with seraphic, marble sculptures and statues, and completed with a delicately applied soupcon of gold.  

Quite a Houses of Parliament... 
Sundays are a rather peculiar experience in Vienna. Every shop, supermarket and majority of restaurants close their doors this time every week; and the city empties with all but tumble weed blowing across the deserted streets. Therefore, as a Sunday happened to be our second and final day in Vienna, we'd decided to take advantage of this and sightsee our way through to the centre of the city and to Stephansdom (St. Steven's Cathedral), the 900 year old, Gothic jewel to Austria's crowning city. It is a towering, yet confined structure with breathtaking attention to detail in the design and construction of its lofty arches, hexagonal turrets, intricately carved spires and its steep, tiled mosaic roof. 

Stephansdom
A typical Viennese public park with the side of the Burg Theatre in the background. 
Despite the phenomenal sights we were visiting; the intense, near 40°C heat of that day slowed us to a languorous state - and so we decided to take cover in the indoor coolness of the Burg Theatre, which was mercifully open for tours. Recommended to me by my Aunt and Uncle, the Burg theatre is an abundance of cultural history and world significance, having premièred Mozart operas and Beethoven symphonies over 200 years ago; although it is more internationally renowned now as a non - musical, German speaking theatre. 

The Main Auditorium 
The actual interior design and architecture of the theatre is almost as famous as its past performers. Although it only boasted a modest capacity compared to modern venues, the main auditorium was memorising. Rows of comfortable, red velvet seats stretched across the room and the steep, rising balconies horseshoed around the stage, focusing intimately onto the prestigious platform on which we were standing. Then, rising up either side to the entrances of the main auditorium, were two extravagantly decorated, imperial marble staircases, laden with red carpets and embellished with regal archways, rising marble pillars, lavish crystal chandeliers, and the heads and busts of the famous actors and playwrights associated with the Burg. Equally as impressive were the ceiling frescos awning the grand staircases, with each panel illustrating intrinsic stages of the history and development of theatre; from its conception in ancient Greece, to the pre-eminence of Shakespeare and beyond.


A pair of star-cross'd lovers take their life.
The fervent excitement of the Euro 2012 final later that night had steadily increased as the day drew on and, having been culturally satiated with the fascinating tour of the Burg theatre, we eagerly anticipated an evening of great promise. We ate earlier than usual in a restaurant just outside our hostel and after an amazing meal we headed up town towards a trusty Irish pub, Charlie P's, to watch Spain annihilate Italy in the final!  

With picturesque landscapes, colourful parks and the 
content, happy locals contributing to a near Utopian atmosphere and society; Vienna was a wonderful surprise on our trip, and one we would be keen to revisit. 






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